Got in yesterday afternoon after too many hours of traveling. The hotel is beautiful. Right on the water. Swell looked strong at sunset as we had dinner and crashed for a good ten hours of sleep.
Woke up around 7 today. We drank delicious java from Java on the beach.
Water was glassy with a 3-5 foot swell in the water. I paddled out for a before breakfast quickie. Mostly Australians in the water absolutely ripping. It was a little intimidating for my first day out in a long time. I parked it in the channel of a gorgeous left hander and tried to figure the spot out. Pretty soon I was in the right spot at the right time, so I went for it. Made the drop and headed down the line. It's a lovely wave. Not hollow or extremely fast but steep enough to really carve on a shortboard, big sweeping turns from top to bottom with the occasional cutback to scrub speed. My first ride was pretty ugly with herky jerky turns but at least remembered how to surf. Caught a few more and took one in.
It wasn't even 9am yet and Sara and I were sitting down for breakfast. Kicked back for the rest of the morning. Swam, walked the beach, read, vaykayed.
In the late afternoon Sara went for a massage and I paddled back out. Just a few folks out now, mostly kooks like me. Rode until my arms went to jello.
Drinking tea by the pool with the wife now. Probably going to grab a beer for sunset, I don't know. One big decision at a time.
That's day one of the honeymoon. Check back soon! Excuse the typos I wrote this with my thumbs.
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