The ocean gives us what we need. Sometimes it's a healthy beating, sometimes it's small playful surf, sometimes it's heart in the throat death slabs, and for the last two days it was smooth walled up lefts.
My buddy Adam at work filled me in with just a few words, "south swell filling in" as we passed each other in the office. As always he was right. Monday was good, Adam and I shared waves at the far north end of the beach. I bounced around on my shortboard while he goofed on his longboard, starting fins first without a leash and still killing it. The night was warm, clear and quiet.
Tonight was really good, verging on great. Went out alone in the fog and was pleasantly surprised by the size and shape. Sorta big but smooth and clean, walled up and firing left. At one point I thought I heard the cracking of thunder but it was just a big one freight training down the beach. Definitely had the best ride in recent memory. It was simply fun. The rides reminded me of the famous surf drawings by artist Andy Davis. You get the drift.
Surf ~ 15
My buddy Adam at work filled me in with just a few words, "south swell filling in" as we passed each other in the office. As always he was right. Monday was good, Adam and I shared waves at the far north end of the beach. I bounced around on my shortboard while he goofed on his longboard, starting fins first without a leash and still killing it. The night was warm, clear and quiet.
Tonight was really good, verging on great. Went out alone in the fog and was pleasantly surprised by the size and shape. Sorta big but smooth and clean, walled up and firing left. At one point I thought I heard the cracking of thunder but it was just a big one freight training down the beach. Definitely had the best ride in recent memory. It was simply fun. The rides reminded me of the famous surf drawings by artist Andy Davis. You get the drift.
Surf ~ 15
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